Tennyson Inlet

After a spell alongside in Havelock it was time to do a trip so we decided to do a 3 day trip round the outer sounds. Steaming along the Tawhitinui Reach looking back into Beatrix Bay.



Beautiful day, calm and sunny. Looking directly astern at Tawero Point which we had rounded shortly before.


The southern coast on the Reach, farmed like a lot of the outer sounds it seems to be going back a bit. A mussel farm along the shore.


Approaching Tennyson Inlet. The next settlement along is Penzance. These two are a mix of holiday and retirement homes. Very sheltered hence the moorings. There is a bush walk from here to Havelock with a lodge in Nydia Bay for the overnight.


The native bush in this area was not felled and milled as it was too hard to get it over the hill into the Ronga / Rai Valley where the mills and associated railways were.


Our anchorage for the night, peaceful spot. No fish.



Beatrix Bay

Our next trip out was to Beatrix Bay. Still farmed it appears to be going back to bush.

Looking north on the way to the bay.


On the eastern side the farm house and pasture. A mussel farm to the right.


Our anchorage for the night, I wonder what history lies behind the house.


Looking to the south west from the anchorage, the boys having fun in the tender.


The wind came up in the early hours the next morning and we ended up stern to the bay and our bows pointing down there.  Plenty of chain out so no problems but it was time to go.

Kenepuru – Raetihi

Our next trip along the Kenepuru took us to another lodge – Raetihi. This is a popular site and often it is closed for functions like weddings. Best to ring beforehand. They have a wharf but given the tidal ranges we anchored off and took the tender in.

The lodge from the sound


A close up of the lodge, we had a nice lunch. It is accessible by road. Lovely grounds with native birds.


Looking out at Kapowai, the southern side of the sound in the background.



Kenepuru Sound – Portage & St. Omer

As you approach Havelock off to port is Kenepuru Sound. Some 16 Nm long it’s eastern end runs close to the Queen Charlotte Sound with a narrow ridge between them.



A convenient bay in Queen Charlotte is just on the other side of the ridge. Catch a boat to Torea Bay and then walk over the hill to the Kenepuru. The place on that side being known as Portage.

The day after we arrived in Havelock we took some of the family to Portage and had lunch at the hotel. Kapowai alongside a somewhat run-down marina.


The hotel where we had a pleasant lunch. They have a bus that runs over and picks people up on the Queen Charlotte side. No hard work on this portage anymore.


Some early roads and easy access by water made this area a summer holiday area.

After lunch we headed back toward Havelock and stopped off at St. Omer for a swim. This used to a beautiful lodge run by a family but they sold a few years ago and the new owners couldn’t make it work.


Looking the other way.


Off to one side in the bay is a wreck, I had to enlarge.


This is the Amokura which was towed here in 1953 as a storage hulk and jetty. Prior to that she had been a coaling hulk in Wellington. However she had a much more exciting start as HMS Sparrow, a 3 masted barque, she saw active service in the Persian Gulf and around Africa suppressing the slave trade. She then ended up in NZ as a training ship for young boys prior to them going to sea. This proved too expensive so she was sold.




Our home for the next two months is going to be Havelock, a port at the head of the Pelorus Sound where the Pelorus River meets the sea.

Kapowai moored in Havelock Marina at sunset.


Looking down on Havelock with a good view of the Pelorus Sound.


Havelock is the centre of the ‘greenshell’ mussel industry with over 60,000 tonnes of mussels passing over the wharf each year.  A lot of logs also come in by barge as well.

The port is interesting with a narrow channel winding through the mud flats. First time we came in an hour before high water and made note of the depths. The next time we came in an hour after low water and touched bottom a couple of times and then ran aground on the last leg into Havelock – a common grounding point especially if you take the turn too tight round the last point (above and to the left of the blue roof).

The next time we came in right on low water and made it all the way without problem.


After a lot of cruising we eventually arrived at Kapowai Bay. This is where Lois’ maternal grandparents lived and where she spent many school holidays. It is on the east coast of D’Urville Island just across from French Pass

This is the only photo I have of the house as it was, unfortunately any attempt to enlarge ends up a mess.


Here it is on the day we visited. A flood took out the old house. There are two creeks running through the property but it must have been some down pour.


Lois’ Grandfather was a launchman who did water taxi, fishing trips, scenic tours, moving freight and anything else he could do in his boat. His boat was called ‘Alamo’.

They had two children both born in Nelson, the first being my mother in law. Mother to be was run down to Nelson in the Alamo at a convenient time prior to the big day.  Must have been a fun ride.

French Pass – Village

After clearing the pass we went and had a look at the village of French Pass. Lois went to school here for a bit and her Mum was the Postmistress.

The road from Rai Valley was put through in 1957 and is reported to be one of, if not the best, scenic routes in new Zealand.


Closer look at the wharf.


Town Centre, mostly a holiday destination now but there are still farmers in the area plus fishermen. Pohutukawa flowering nicely.