Whakatahuri Bay

Our anchorage for the night was Whakatahuri Bay at the bottom of Forsyth Bay, as usual with mussel farms and attendant shags.



In the 1950s the Wells brothers, Francis & Thomas, set up a ship breaking business in the bay which was, later, also well known for building boats. I think Lois’ grandfather had a boat built here. I’m not sure how much goes on here now but there is still a lot of evidence.


Close up of the wreck, she was the coastal vessel MV Tiroa.


As she was.


and the debris field, I think all the good stuff will have gone.


After a easy start we headed off.

Hallam Cove

After leaving Elaine Bay we steamed north toward Hallam Cove.  Approaching the entrance with Mt. Shewell in the background. The farm in the photograph is owned by one of the extended family.


The homestead at Te Towaka at the top of Hallam Cove, as usual a mussel farm in the bay.


A penguin, not easy to photograph as they dive on approach. The people in the sounds find them a nuisance as they like to nest under houses, noisy and smelly. These are the Blue Penguins, the smallest in the family.


Leaving the Pelorus Sound we round the point into Forsyth Bay, WW II gun emplacements on the point. Mostly manned by the Home Guard.


Anchored in Forsyth Bay for the night.


Elaine Bay

We picked up the anchor next morning, flat calm with the sound of native birds tweeting & warbling through the morning mist.


After a leisurely breakfast we got underway and headed north. The islands on the approach to Tennyson Inlet and in the distance the hills behind Hallam Cove, a later destination.


Round the corner and into Elaine Bay, a fishing port and holiday area. It was in use before the road to French Pass was put in but has benefited now there is a road.  Here is the wharf and fuel dock. We didn’t tie up.


The holiday part.


I have been along the French Pass road several times but never came down to Elaine Bay, might have to go back and stay a night.


First of all an apology to those of you who read this. Since arriving back in New Zealand we have been going through some changes. We have bought a house, Kate & Jordan got married, Christopher & Toni got engaged and we didn’t do a lot of cruising over the winter.

The blog will resume where we left off doing a three day trip round the outer sounds. All the above topics will come in the right order.

Tennyson Inlet

After a spell alongside in Havelock it was time to do a trip so we decided to do a 3 day trip round the outer sounds. Steaming along the Tawhitinui Reach looking back into Beatrix Bay.



Beautiful day, calm and sunny. Looking directly astern at Tawero Point which we had rounded shortly before.


The southern coast on the Reach, farmed like a lot of the outer sounds it seems to be going back a bit. A mussel farm along the shore.


Approaching Tennyson Inlet. The next settlement along is Penzance. These two are a mix of holiday and retirement homes. Very sheltered hence the moorings. There is a bush walk from here to Havelock with a lodge in Nydia Bay for the overnight.


The native bush in this area was not felled and milled as it was too hard to get it over the hill into the Ronga / Rai Valley where the mills and associated railways were.


Our anchorage for the night, peaceful spot. No fish.



Beatrix Bay

Our next trip out was to Beatrix Bay. Still farmed it appears to be going back to bush.

Looking north on the way to the bay.


On the eastern side the farm house and pasture. A mussel farm to the right.


Our anchorage for the night, I wonder what history lies behind the house.


Looking to the south west from the anchorage, the boys having fun in the tender.


The wind came up in the early hours the next morning and we ended up stern to the bay and our bows pointing down there.  Plenty of chain out so no problems but it was time to go.

Kenepuru – Raetihi

Our next trip along the Kenepuru took us to another lodge – Raetihi. This is a popular site and often it is closed for functions like weddings. Best to ring beforehand. They have a wharf but given the tidal ranges we anchored off and took the tender in.

The lodge from the sound


A close up of the lodge, we had a nice lunch. It is accessible by road. Lovely grounds with native birds.


Looking out at Kapowai, the southern side of the sound in the background.



Kenepuru Sound – Portage & St. Omer

As you approach Havelock off to port is Kenepuru Sound. Some 16 Nm long it’s eastern end runs close to the Queen Charlotte Sound with a narrow ridge between them.



A convenient bay in Queen Charlotte is just on the other side of the ridge. Catch a boat to Torea Bay and then walk over the hill to the Kenepuru. The place on that side being known as Portage.

The day after we arrived in Havelock we took some of the family to Portage and had lunch at the hotel. Kapowai alongside a somewhat run-down marina.


The hotel where we had a pleasant lunch. They have a bus that runs over and picks people up on the Queen Charlotte side. No hard work on this portage anymore.


Some early roads and easy access by water made this area a summer holiday area.

After lunch we headed back toward Havelock and stopped off at St. Omer for a swim. This used to a beautiful lodge run by a family but they sold a few years ago and the new owners couldn’t make it work.


Looking the other way.


Off to one side in the bay is a wreck, I had to enlarge.


This is the Amokura which was towed here in 1953 as a storage hulk and jetty. Prior to that she had been a coaling hulk in Wellington. However she had a much more exciting start as HMS Sparrow, a 3 masted barque, she saw active service in the Persian Gulf and around Africa suppressing the slave trade. She then ended up in NZ as a training ship for young boys prior to them going to sea. This proved too expensive so she was sold.




Our home for the next two months is going to be Havelock, a port at the head of the Pelorus Sound where the Pelorus River meets the sea.

Kapowai moored in Havelock Marina at sunset.


Looking down on Havelock with a good view of the Pelorus Sound.


Havelock is the centre of the ‘greenshell’ mussel industry with over 60,000 tonnes of mussels passing over the wharf each year.  A lot of logs also come in by barge as well.

The port is interesting with a narrow channel winding through the mud flats. First time we came in an hour before high water and made note of the depths. The next time we came in an hour after low water and touched bottom a couple of times and then ran aground on the last leg into Havelock – a common grounding point especially if you take the turn too tight round the last point (above and to the left of the blue roof).

The next time we came in right on low water and made it all the way without problem.